Aquatic invasive species like zebra mussels and Eurasian milfoil can damage ecosystems, ruin boat ramps and beaches, and make fishing, swimming, and paddling a lot less fun. The problem? Many AIS are too small to see, so a paddle board that looks clean can still be carrying trouble.

Decontaminating your SUP is about two things:

1. Killing any organisms hitchhiking on your board and gear.

2. Keeping them from spreading to the next lake, river, or reservoir you visit.

Every time you clean and decontaminate your board, you’re helping protect your favorite waterways and the communities that depend on them. So read on to learn how to decontaminate a SUP. 

Before you worry about drying, hot water, or chemicals, always start here:

• Inspect your board carefully

  • Look for: mud, plant bits, slime, shells, or anything stuck in:

    • Deck pad texture

    • Handle wells

    • D-rings and accessory mounts

    • Around vent plugs or valves

• Rinse and wipe it down

  • Use a rag or soft brush and clean water (ideally right at the launch area).

  • Remove:

    • All visible plant material (it could be AIS like Eurasian milfoil)

    • Mud and sand

    • Any “gunk” that could hold moisture

Don’t forget to clean:

• Paddle (shaft, blade, handle)

• PFD and leash

• Cooler, dry bags, kayak seat, fishing accessories

• Any item that touched the water or sat on the deck

Once the visible stuff is gone, you’re ready to decontaminate.

If you’ve got time between paddles, drying is the simplest and most realistic method for most SUP owners. AIS need water to survive—no moisture, no hitchhikers.

1. Choose a dry, shaded area

   • Garage, shed, covered patio are ideal.

   • Avoid direct sun for long periods—UV and heat can damage deck pads over time.

2. Lay the board out so air can circulate

   • Inflate it or lay it flat—either works as long as both sides dry.

   • Open any vent plugs or valve covers if applicable so trapped moisture can escape.

3. Flip the board once

   • When the top feels dry, flip it to let the bottom dry fully.

4. Dry your gear too

   • Paddle, PFD, leash, cooler, kayak seat, etc.

   • Pay special attention to straps, seams, foam, and pockets that hold water.

5. Give it enough time

   • Many agencies recommend several days of dry time between different water bodies if you’re not using hot water or a decon station.

Drying is low-effort, cheap, and very effective—as long as you allow complete drying, not “just feels mostly dry.”

When you don’t have days to let things dry—or local rules require it—scalding water or steam is a great option.

• Use water at or above 140°F (60°C).

• Expose every part of the board and gear to hot water for at least 10 seconds.

This temperature and exposure time are high enough to kill AIS, but not high enough to damage a quality inflatable or hard board when done correctly.

You might:

• Visit a boat decontamination station (common at some lakes and reservoirs).

• Use a home hot water source if you can safely control temperature and runoff.

A household clothing steamer can also work, especially for:

• Deck pad edges

• Fin boxes

• Accessory mounts on fishing boards

• Valve areas and seams

Just like with hot water:

• Make sure all surfaces get at least 10 seconds of steam.

• Be methodical—overlap passes so you don’t miss spots.

Steam and hot water are more effort than simply drying, but they’re very useful when:

• You’re paddling different lakes on back-to-back days.

• Local regulations require decontamination.

• You’ve just been on a lake known to have zebra/quagga mussels or other serious AIS.

Chemical decontamination is not the go-to method for most paddlers, but it has a place in specific situations.

• The most effective chemicals can be hazardous or regulated.

• It’s hard to keep chemicals in contact with the hull long enough to be effective.

• One chemical rarely works for all invasive species.

Instead, chemicals are best used as a targeted tool, combined with drying or hot water, especially for:

• Hard-to-dry pockets: accessory mounts, deck hardware, vent plugs.

• Small items that can easily sit in a soak: some fittings, small parts, maybe water-holding gear.

Research has found that distilled white vinegar can kill zebra mussels with around 4 hours of exposure.

Realistically, you can’t keep the entire hull of a SUP wet with vinegar for that long—so think small and targeted:

• Around accessory mounts on fishing SUPs like the O2 Angler.

• Inside coolers, buckets, or containers that may hold water.

If you use chemicals:

• Do your homework on which species are in your area and what’s effective.

• Follow safety directions carefully.

• Never let chemical runoff flow into storm drains or natural waterways.

Aquatic invasive species can:

• Destroy habitat for native fish, bugs, and plants.

• Rip up fishing line, snag lures, and clog boat ramps (Eurasian milfoil, etc.).

• Cut bare feet and dogs’ paws (zebra mussels on rocks and swim areas).

• Damage infrastructure like docks, intakes, and launch ramps.

• Hurt local economies that depend on recreation and clean water.

Every clean-drain-dry routine on your SUP helps:

• Protect your favorite paddle spots.

• Reduce future restrictions and closures.

• Keep lakes and rivers enjoyable for paddlers, anglers, swimmers, and wildlife.

• 

Before you leave the lake or river:

• ☐ Inspect board for mud, plants, and gunk

• ☐ Rinse/wipe with clean water where allowed

• ☐ Drain water from coolers, dry bags, and gear

At home or at your next stop:

• ☐ Choose a decontamination method: Drying, hot water/steam, or targeted chemicals

• ☐ Make sure both sides of your SUP get fully dry or fully treated

• ☐ Don’t forget paddle, PFD, leash, and accessories

• ☐ Store in a dry place once you’re done